Xinaliq – Another world
No trip to Azerbaijan would be complete without a trip to Xinaliq (also known as Khinalig or Xhinaliq). This remote village, 20kms from the border with Dagestan, is an amazing example of the tenacity of rural mountainfolk.
Being in such an Isolated location has meant that the people of Xinaliq have not only developed their own language but have became totally self sufficient and for many years have lived a subsistence lifestyle, completely independent from the outside world.
We travelled to Xinaliq to meet its people and to explore the picturesque village and it’s surroundings. An amazing journey and an experience that was well worth the effort to get there.
Watch our Xinaliq trip on Youtube
Baku to Quba
We caught the bus from Baku’s main bus station to Quba, a small town in the north of Azerbaijan. The “bus”, a cramped minibus took 4 hours of driving through a parched landscape to get to Quba. We squeezed in at the last moment so i got stuck in a pull down seat. I was next to a very chatty old gentleman which pushed my Russian language knowledge way beyond its comfort zone.
The journey flew by. Once we were past the nodding donkeys of the oil zone we entered a more fertile landscape as we headed north. We followed the water pipeline, Baku’s life blood from the mountains and were in Quba by mid-day.
Finding a taxi to Xinaliq
In Quba we jumped on a local marshrutka from the main bus station to a smaller taxi park nearer the centre of town. The public bus routes end in Quba. The mountain roads are too brutal for buses so it is 4×4 taxis from there on heading into the hills.
We negotiated a ride with Idris. A gold toothed driver with a Lada Niva 4×4. It looked like it had spent many years on those wild, mountain roads. It’s cracked windscreen and tired bodywork gave us a clue as to what lay ahead.
Happy with the price of 30 Manat for the one and a half hour ride. We loaded our bags in the back and set off.
Quba to Xinaliq
We first passed through pleasant forest on the outskirts on Quba where locals go for picnics in the country. Kebab stalls lined the roadside with smoking samovars tempting passing drivers to stop for chai.
Heading into the hills
Before long we passed through deep gorges and then the road started to climb up steep switchbacks onto higher terrain. We left the tree line behind and emerged through mist and cloud. We entered a different, wilder landscape of rocky crags and treacherous drop offs. I could sense the tension coming from Mandy sitting behind me. She doesn’t fare too well on these challenging mountain roads.
The journey was nothing short of spectacular. The Lada went well as Idris steered us across a tough mountain landscape with the skill and ease of an experienced driver.
Finding a home stay in Xinaliq
Every driver has a connection to a home stay in Xinaliq where you will find a bed and meals for the duration of your stay. Idris first took us to a home that was on the northern edge of Xinaliq. When we said we wanted to be on the other side of the village with views of the snow capped mountains, he drove us to a different place that was exactly what we wanted.
We ended up at Rauf Laleyev’s home. It is a typical, simple Xinaliq village home which is made from wood and stone. The farm animals sleep below the living rooms so we got a real feel of the traditional way of living here as the animals are an integral part of the families daily life.
traditional home Our mattress bed
We must say that you shouldn’t come to Xinaliq if you don’t like basic living. This is the true back to nature experience with the sounds and smells of the animals included. The toilet is a long drop outside the house and don’t expect a hot shower at the end of the day.
What you do get is the real experience of the timeless, peaceful way of life in a remote mountain village and a warm, heartfelt welcome from a wonderful family. An example of this was our first meal. The family plied us with a lavish spread of hearty, home produced food washed down with tea from the samovar. Dolma, sheep cheese, pickled vegetables, preserved cherries and fresh bread. From that moment we knew that this was the place for us.
Exploring Xinaliq
After settling in, Rauf took us on a guided tour of the village. The houses seemed to climb on top of each other as they scrambled up the steep hillside. Their flat roofs double as lookout points over the panorama below.
The walls are constructed of grey rocks in horizontal and vertical rows. Many courtyards are surrounded by walls of sheep and cow dung bricks which will serve as fuel for the fires to keep the houses warm in the harsh winters.
We climbed up onto the roof of the mosque, the highest point in the village, to get a true vantage point over the surrounding valleys and mountains. It was a spectacular sight but the clouds rolled in and the afternoon rain drove us back indoors. This is a common weather feature in Xinaliq so trekking adventures are always recommended as a morning activity!
The rhythm of daily life
We returned to our warm home stay for more hot tea. We settled into an evening around the table, chatting with our hosts about their life in the village.
Before dinner the 30 family sheep were brought back from the pastures by the eldest son, Bilal. He put them into the compound below as they are every day. Gilare, the younger daughter helped her mother to carry water and in the kitchen preparing food for another sumptuous dinner.
Afterwards, In the darkness of the evening, we accompanied Rauf to the compound below to milk the sheep, almost filling a 10 lire pail. We then helped to herd them into their stable under the house to unite them with the bleating lambs waiting to feed off them. 2 cows shared the stable and chickens ran around freely. Everything the family needs for a constant food source.
Trekking around Xinaliq
We had a solid sleep on comfortable mattress’s. We stirred early in the morning to the patter of sheep hooves below being driven out to the fields and to the crowing of a nearby cockerel. Timeless sounds of country life that remain unchanged for millennia.
We woke to a sunny day and a blue sky so after an ample breakfast we headed off out to hike in the hills surrounding Xinaliq. There are plenty of options for long or short hikes in the vicinity or even to hire a horse and go further. We chose a simple walk to a viewpoint north of the village which only took a couple of hours at a steady pace but was rewarding for the amazing scenery all around us.
We call this “last of the summer wine” hiking as we spend more time sitting and admiring the scenery as we do walking. It was strenuous enough for us and adventurous enough too as we chose a shortcut back to the village and came a bit unstuck.
Off the beaten track
We followed a trail on maps.me and then decided to “go off road”, cutting across a goats track to cross a gorge back to the village. That was a big mistake as the narrow track was not suitable for anything but goats. As we started to slip on scree over a steep hillside we realised we had taken a big, unnecessary risk.
Mandy really struggles on scree and became rather distraught but kept her cool really well as she clung onto the hillside in fear. We made the call to turn back to safety and took the longer hike home. All was well in the end even if Mandy was trembling for a long time after but we could have ended up in real trouble. Therefore the moral of the story is – Stick to the well trodden path!
The comforts of home
We returned to Rauf’s home and Gunarae served us another bountiful lunch of soup with all the trimmings. I explored the village a little further while Mandy rested and enjoyed the comforts of home in this peaceful place.
Xinaliq is one of those places you can either chose a plethora of adventure activities or just sit back, relax and enjoy the tranquility of simple village life, far from the hustle bustle of the daily urban grind.
The following morning, after another solid night’s sleep Idris picked us up at a pre-arranged time. He whisked us back along the winding mountain road to civilisation in Quba for 25 Manat. Along the way we encountered a land slip and a digger scooped rocks and snow off the road to keep it open.
It was sad to say farewell to the family who had become friends in the short time we had stayed with them. It had been an incredible experience and one we will remember for a long time to come.
How to visit Xinaliq – The facts
May 2019 – $1 US = 1.69 AZ Manat
Transport to Xinaliq
To travel from Baku to Quba go to the main Baku bus station. The Avtovagzal station on the metro. You buy tickets and buses depart from the third floor. They go regularly, cost 4 Manat each and there’s no need to book in advance.
If arriving in Quba from Baku, you will arrive in the main bus station. From there take the number 1 marshrutka into the town. 30 Qopek each. Get off at the taxi park near to hotel Oskar. It is marked on maps.me
You will be approached by taxi drivers offering rides to Xinaliq. The going rate is 10 Manat per person in a shared taxi but they are hard to come by. If you negotiate for a private taxi you should get one for 30 Manat. Make sure it is a 4×4. Lada Nivas are the common vehicles. We went with Idris who is an excellent driver and we would recommend him. He can be contacted on this number – +994 705782458. The journey takes 1 to 1 and a half hours depending on photo stops.
May 2019 – 30 Manat = US$ 17.70
Accommodation in Xinaliq
Your taxi driver will take you to a home stay somewhere in the village and it may be to your liking or not. Don’t expect too much in the way of comfort. Life is difficult here and modern luxuries are few and far between. We paid 30 Manat per person, per night for a bed and 3 meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner). Wifi was included which is new to the village only in the past year.
It is possible to find or bargain for cheaper but we think it is a fair price for what we received. The food was excellent and plentiful and people here work hard to provide this. All in all we think it is excellent value for a unique experience in a fascinating place.
If you want to stay with Rauf’s family, which we would thoroughly recommend. You can contact him on his facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/rauf.lalayev.3
Or on his whatsapp number +994503582539
His English is limited but he speaks some Russian also
Like trekking? Check out some of our other blog posts on trekking
Are you thinking of travelling to Xinaliq? Does a visit to this remote village appeal to you?
We hope this post on travelling to Xinaliq was useful to you. Please leave a comment below if you have more to add to this information as we’d love to hear from you.
Happy travels!
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6 thoughts on “Xinaliq – visiting the highest village in Europe”
Hello Dears, I followed your suggestion and stayed with Rauf and Family for two days.They still remember you 😀.Wonderful people and wonderful experience.Went trecking and horse riding.I was even invited to a village marriage party.We went to the party together and danced and had fun.Thank you so much for suggesting this ! It was really worth travelling to this marvellous village and the View from up the valley was simply breath taking.
That’s so lovely! Aren’t they the nicest family – we had such a wonderful time staying with them, and we’re so happy you enjoyed it as much! You did so much when you were there! The horse riding sounds fun and it would have been brilliant to have been invited to a village wedding party. Xinaliq is such a special place – truly unique. I’m so pleased our blog post was helpful for you!
I am travelling to Xinaliq in May 2020 and have contacted Rauf to see if I can stay with his family. Thank you so much for the recommendations about this area of Azerbijan.
We are so glad you enjoyed the blog and hope you have a great time with Rauf and his wonderful family. Visiting Xinaliq is an incredible experience and for us was a real highlight of Azerbaijan. Happy travels!
Hi Mandy and Lee. Thank you for sharing your video on Xinaliq. I would like to spend a couple day hiking there in July 2023. Is there anything you recommend. Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to comment. As we were there a while ago, the best information we have would be from the video or from our blog post.
We hope you have a great time there!