Pamir Highway Adventure – Part 2
Continuing on from our first blog post about our amazing trip across the Pamir Highway from Osh in Kyrgyzstan to Dushanbe in Tajikistan. We continue our adventure with our 4 travel buddies and Beka the driver, crossing high mountain passes from Murghab over into the Wakhan Valley and following the Panj river along the border with Afghanistan all the way to Khorog at the end of the Pamir Highway.
Check out part 1 of this Journey From Osh in Kyrgyzstan to Murghab in Tajikistan here
Day 3 – Murghab to Langar
Now we totally understand why the Pamir Highway has such a reputation of being one of the world’s great highways. The views were once again spectacular all the way today. We climbed over another high pass at 4137 metres into the beautiful Alichur valley. We stopped regularly to chat to some of the crazy and inspirational hard-core cyclists doing the trip the tough way, and to take a plethora of photographs of the scenic beauty that surrounded us.
From the Pamir Highway into the Wakhan valley
We turned off the Pamir highway and followed the rougher southern road over the Aghbai Karghush pass at 4344 Metres. Here we came across an incredible phenomenon. A high lake that was bright red in colour with millions of tiny tadpole like fish that moved around constantly in their droves and made the water look alive. It was most odd.
We dropped down from the pass into the splendour of the Wakhan valley. In front of us was a wall of some of the most dramatic mountains I have ever seen. This was the Hindu Kush, a place I’d heard about and dreamed of seeing for years.
Afghanistan
At the bottom of the descent we passed through a military checkpoint and finally reach the Panj River which we’d be following for the next few days. This is the border of Afghanistan and Tajikistan and at times the road almost touched the water’s edge and we could have thrown a rock across the narrow river to the other side. It was a strange feeling being so close to a country we’d only ever heard of as being a dangerous war zone and a total no-go area. It looked so peaceful along the Wakhan corridor.
The rough mountain road was a pleasure to drive along with such a wild and remote feeling to it. It slowly grew warmer and eventually more verdant the lower we got. Langar village was an oasis of fertile soil and bucolic charm surrounded by a barren and rocky parched landscape. We stayed in a friendly traditional Tajik guest house that was over 200 years old, and spent a great evening kicking a football around with the village kids until it got so dark we couldn’t see the ball anymore!
Day 4 – Langar to Ishkashim
The Wakhan Valley drive was yet another stunner scenery-wise again as we passed through many populous and friendly villages. Kids and adults would all wave and shout greetings as we drove through their picturesque streets. We could see lots of village activity on the Afghan side of the river as locals rode donkeys to their fields to work.
A Guide to Erbil Iraqi Kurdistan
Forts and Hot Springs
Half way down the valley and 6km up a side valley of steep hairpin bends we came to the impressive ruins of Yamchun Fort. The crumbing walls of this 12th Century fort stood on top of a promontory overlooking the sweeping river valley to protect the inhabitants from marauding Afghans from across the river. There were no tourists here, no ticket booths, no souvenir sellers. Just us and this incredible historical setting.
Further up the valley was the Bibi Fatima hot springs where we stopped to bathe in its warm and restorative waters. The natural hot spring water cleansed and refreshed us, and we felt reinvigorated as we dried ourselves under glorious mountain views.
Before we arrived in Ishkashim we stopped off at yet another crumbling fortress overlooking the river. The Khaakha fortress has stood here for 2300 years and the walls still remain, as do guardian soldiers. The Tajik soldiers who have a base on the strategic point overlooking the Afghanistan border, beckoned us up and allowed us to look around as they stood with guns at the ready, keeping a close eye over the river below.
Ishkashim
Ishkashim is a pleasant village on a bend in the Panj river. We were taken to the Hanis guesthouse ($15 bed, dinner and breakfast), where we met 3 groups doing the trip in reverse from Dushanbe to Osh. The huge guesthouse was also the venue that night for a big party where most of the village folk came to celebrate the eve of Eid, the end of Ramadan, known as Ramazan in Tajikistan. Colourfully dressed local women invited us to help them blow up balloons and prepare for their concert. It was to be a busy evening of festivities.
The World Cup in Ishkashim
We scoured the village looking for a TV to watch the opening game of the World Cup finals in Russia. We came across Parvis, a very friendly guy who spoke excellent English and managed the T Cell phone store, and who had set up the only access to the game in the village. He told us he had a big screen projector and would be showing the game live that night.
As arranged, his brother picked a crowd of us up from the guesthouse at 8 pm. He led us down some dark streets towards the river and the Afghan border. There in a back street we came across his huge screen setup outside his home. There were about 50 Tajik men squatting in the dust watching the game between Russia and Saudi Arabia. Russia won 5-0 and the Tajiks all cheered loudly with every goal that went in. They were clearly all in favour of Russia in this match.
It was a surreal experience watching the opening game of the World Cup in this manner in such a remote location. The Tajiks were pleased to have us there and made us most welcome. It was one of those special situations where people come together from such different walks of life and celebrate World football together which was an unforgettable experience.
Day 5 – Ishkashim to Khorog
Our final day on the road and it was a little hazy so not quite as photogenic as the previous excellent days. The valley here was wide and fertile and again we enjoyed the people and scenery along the way. The Afghan villages over the river looked more prosperous here. The valley walls closed up on us as we went South. The river turned into a raging torrent as we passed through a tight gorge. We stopped at another hot spring spot at Garam Chashma for a dip in the mineral pools. This way we ended our journey a lot cleaner than I had imagined after all the dusty roads we had covered over this wild and adventurous journey.
We finally arrived in Khorog. A really pleasant town on a bend in the Panj river with a relaxed feel to the place. Most importantly we had covered the most remote and inaccessible parts of Tajikistan’s fabled Pamir Highway and the Wakhan valley. We had arrived safely in a place with connections to the outside world. To regular electricity, internet, hot showers, choices of restaurants and comfortable beds! We said farewell to Beka, our trusty driver and settled into the Like Home guesthouse – $10 per person per night for accommodation, without dinner or breakfast.
We were going to enjoy our stay here!!
Katie and Jake who travelled with us on this journey write great blogs on their site – www. untoldwanderlust.com and they have useful information on the Pamir Highway trip on this blog post
Check out part 1 of this Journey From Osh in Kyrgyzstan to Murghab in Tajikistan here
Find more frugal travel adventures in Central Asia from our travels in
Kyrgyzstan Tajikistan Kazakhstan Turkmenistan Uzbekistan Iran
