Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan region of Iraq is a fascinating city to visit. Why?
It has history – The citadel which sits on a mound in the centre of the city has been continuously inhabited for almost 7,000 years and is said to be one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities.
It has character – The most beautiful part of visiting this region is the interaction you will have with the Kurdish people. These kind, hospitable folk are the warmest and most generous people we have met anywhere in the world. The experience of being among them will blow you away!
It has variety – From the abandoned Arab quarter to the more modern Christian suburb of Ankawa in the north of the city, Erbil has a huge variety of religion, culture, architecture and things to see and do.
We initially came for a few days and eventually spent 9 days in Erbil because we fell in love with the city and it’s people. This guide to Erbil will show you why we loved it so much and give you tips on what to see and do in Erbil Iraqi Kurdistan.
Where is Erbil?
Erbil is the capital city of the Autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan which is located in the N/E of Iraq and borders Iran, Turkey and Syria. We travelled overland from Turkey to get there, crossing the border at Ibrahim Khalil near Silopi.
Is it safe to visit Erbil?
We spent 11 days in Kurdistan in August 2019 and had absolutely no trouble at all. In fact the Kurdish people are the nicest, friendliest, most welcoming people we have ever came across in all our years of travel.
b that, Kurdistan is in a troubled part of the world. There is no denying that. Its borders with Iraq and Syria are plagued with the threat of ISIS and there are areas where you should not visit. Kurdistan is well protected by its Peshmerga military forces who are working constantly on keeping the country secure. Currently the cities of Mosul and Kirkuk are out of bounds.
You should always seek advice on the current situation before travelling to this region. The official government website for travel advice to UK citizens is The FCO advice site.
Another good news source that gives regular fresh news is the Kurdistan News 24 site.
For more detailed information on travelling in Kurdistan see our other post
Travel costs and information for Iraqi Kurdistan
What to see and do in Erbil
There is plenty in Erbil to keep you occupied for at least a couple of days and if you are like us then you will take great pleasure in the main activity – hanging out with the locals and enjoying the vibe. We were very fortunate to make good friends with some locals who kindly showed us around the city extensively so we got a really good feel for the place. These were our highlights.
The Erbil Citadel
Dating back to the 5th century BC Erbil citadel is a unique place steeped in history. In fact the mound it sits on is the built up remnants of all the previous mud brick dwellings over thousands of years of habitation. It has now been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The buildings on its edge have been renovated in parts, which gives it a new look from some angles (but not from the east side as you can see below).
It is still under re-construction so a lot of the interior is in a bad state of disrepair and not accessible. A main street that cuts through the middle takes you past a textile museum to the mosque and a huge Kurdistan flag. Further along is another museum, which was closed when we were there.
We recommend visiting in the early evening when the weather is cooler. At sunset locals gather at the entrance to enjoy the views across to the square below.
Opening hours for the citadel are 9 am to 7 pm. It is free to enter.
The main square
The main square below Erbil citadel is a focal point for the city’s inhabitants to visit. With the citadel as a backdrop and the bazaar next door it is in a fantastic location.
This place really comes to life at night when the weather is cooler. Families gather, young couples stroll and people hang out. We spent many an evening there, sitting by the fountains and people-watching as it had a great atmosphere.
There are chai shops all around the square. Take a seat, drink some tea and meet the locals. Without a doubt you will end up chatting to somebody.
Take a look around Erbil on our postcard challenge
Travelling on to Iran? Read One Month In Iran
Qaysari Bazaar
Below the citadel and to the west of the main square is the Qaysari bazaar. We loved wandering around here, getting lost in the labyrinth of alleyways and absorbing the sights and smells of this vibrant place.
There are hundreds of traditional stalls selling all kinds of merchandise from clothes and jewelry to carpets and handicrafts.
The food sections are fascinating to visit, especially the many sweet stalls selling all kinds of colourful delicacies. The owners are friendly and will hand out samples and explain what is on offer. They are happy for you to take photographs as well.
The great thing is that it does not seem like a tourist market at all as it is full of locals doing their daily shopping. There is absolutely no hassle to buy which makes it a relaxed place to aimlessly wander.
If you want to change money this is a good spot. You will find money changers sitting around the edge of the bazaar with stacks of cash bundled up on top of glass cases. Not only do they change money to regular Iraqi Dinar but they sell old Dinar notes with Saddam Hussein’s face on as souvenirs!!
See the latest currency exchange rates on XE.COM
Ankawa Christian district
Our good Kurdish friend, Hana took us on a drive one day up to the Christian suburb of Ankawa in the north of Erbil city. It is not too far from the centre, so a taxi should only cost 4000-5000 dinar.
Ankawa is quite a unique place compared to rest of Erbil, or anywhere else in Iraq or Kurdistan for that matter. As it is a Christian suburb, different rules apply. Therefore it seems much more casual than the rest of the country and you will notice people are dressed less conservatively.
The 2 things that you will find in a Christian suburb are churches and alcohol!! There are many interesting churches to visit and a buzzing nightlife that caters to the large ex-pat community in Ankawa.
Ankawa is a bustling suburb which is full of great places to eat as well. We had an incredible meat feast there.
Iskan street – Erbil’s cheap food street
Only one kilometre south of Erbil citadel is Iskan Street. It is a long street packed with cheap eating places side to side and is really popular with locals. The food is cheap and good and the place is thriving in the evening when the local lads come out to eat and smoke shisha.
It seems to be only full of men so may be a little intimidating for single female travellers. We met a cafe owner there that was proud of the fact that he was the first business in the street to employ a woman as it was a real rarity.
The cafes and stalls sell mostly the ubiquitous kebabs but different meats can be found. Vegetarians might struggle here.
Read this great GoNomad article on Iskan Street
Travelling on to Iran? Read the frugal travel guide to Iran
Shanadar Park
Shanadar Park lies just to the south east of Minare Park and is another lovely green open space where locals gather. When we visited there was a huge circus-like tent near the entrance which was displaying an aqua show with live sharks on display. We weren’t going to visit that even if it was operating.
Two imposing neanderthals stand guard of the entrance as the park is named after the nearby Shanidar caves where remnants of the 65,000 year old hominids were discovered.
Inside the park there are cafes, play areas for kids, a large lake and of course the cable cars.
There is also the Shanadar gallery which is designed like a huge cave which has a great viewpoint on the roof and an extensive display of artwork by local artists. This one of the few places where you can buy postcards in Erbil if you wish to send some.
The park is open from 7 am to 11 pm and is free to enter
Just south of Shanadar Park is the Aqua park which is an ideal place to go and cool down on a hot Erbil day. There is a big pool and water slides. When we checked it was 5000 Dinar to enter. Family days are Wednesday and Saturday which means females can enter. Other days are men-only and unfortunately we walked past on a Thursday so we were not able to go in as a couple. Opening hours are 12 pm to 7 pm.
Minare Park
Shanadar Park runs through to Minare Park to the north west. This is a pleasant area with shaded park benches and fountains, which is another great place to relax and meet the locals. There is a small scale model of the Erbil citadel which gives a good overall view of it. Also there is a tethered hot air balloon which may or may not rise, and also the terminal for the cable car which you can ride across to Shandar Park if it is in operation.
Take a look on the Visit Erbil Site
Minare Park is named after the 13th century Choli minaret which stands at its northern end. This was once attached to a much bigger mosque on the same grounds.
It was yet another brutally hot 47 C day when we visited the park. We foolishly were walking around in the heat of the afternoon when all the sensible locals are safely hiding away in the air-con. The highlight for us was showering in the water sprinklers of the rose garden, which was the perfect place to cool off.
Drinking tea and chatting with the locals
Our most memorable experiences of our time in Erbil were the hours we spent sitting and drinking tea with the many wonderful Kurds we met. This can be done absolutely anywhere as there is always tea to be found. Often we were invited into shops or just offerred tea and water as we walked down the street. The kindness and hospitality of the people here is overwhelming.
It you stop and sit in a cafe or at one the many street side tea stalls you will inevitably end up in a conversation with a friendly local. This is a fantastic opportunity to connect, laugh and learn something of the language and culture of Kurdistan.
We really struggled to be allowed to pay for our tea as we were constantly invited by the people we met. Once we tried to insist on paying but could tell our new friend felt insulted by this so we let it go. It is truly heartwarming to meet such kind and open people.
Travel costs and information for Iraqi Kurdistan
Exploring the abandoned Arab Quarter
The district to the west of Qaysari bazaar is the former Arab quarter of Erbil. The houses have been mostly abandoned now and lie empty and derelict although a few families still live among them.
It feels quite strange to step just a block or two away from the lively bazaar into this spooky, rundown ghost town. When we asked Kurdish friends we were told that the local council had plans to renovate the entire area into another urban park area and they were waiting for the last people to leave before work could take place.
Having selfie sessions with the locals
Like everywhere around the world the phenomenon of the selfie has firmly taken hold here. Coupled with the friendliness of the people, this meant we were constantly receiving requests from complete strangers in the street to join them in a selfie together.
We have a policy that if somebody asks for a selfie with us we will always agree and we will take one ourselves to connect to the new people we meet. The selfie is a great ice-breaker to begin a conversation and make new friends.
We were in Erbil during Eid-Al-Adha, the festival of the sacrifice. This is the second biggest holiday in the Muslim calendar and for almost a week the streets were heaving with celebrating local holidaymakers. The parks and streets were full and places like the citadel walls at sunset were teeming with people, all intent on getting that selfie.
It was so much fun!
Within half an hour of walking though the citadel grounds during Eid we had received invitations to visit Baghdad, Tikrit, Mosul and Basra from holidaymakers. If only!
We’ve made some incredible friendships with the wonderful Kurdish people and we still can’t stop smiling when thinking about it.
Jalil Khayat Mosque
One of the most imposing landmarks we noticed from the view from the top of the citadel was the Jalil Khayat Mosque. Its tall minarets stood high above the rooftops looking north east from the citadel.
We decided to take a hike out to the mosque to have a closer look. It’s a 2 km walk and we incorporated it into a longer hike out to the Erbil International Bus Terminal to buy onward tickets. We like to explore the backstreets of the outlying neighbourhoods to get an insight into everyday local life in the cities we visit.
The mosque is quite new but it has an incredibly impressive facade and a wonderfully decorated exterior. Unfortunately we were not able to enter as it was all closed up during the Eid festival. I’m sure it would be well worth a look inside if you can.
Who are the Frugal travellers?
Other interesting sights
The affluent west side of the city
Our kind Kurdish friends took us out for a drive around Erbil to show us the different sides of the city that most tourists do not usually see. To the west side of the city are the more upmarket suburbs where the wealthier section of Erbil society live. The main suburbs are –
- Dream City
- Empire Royal City
- English Village
- Italian Village
Here the streets are cleaner, the electricity is 24 hours and the infrastructure is well established. There are gated communities with high security and there is a buzzing nightlife with many high end, late night restaurants, cafes and bars. Dream City is the epicentre of the district. This is where the aspiring Erbil folks come to socialise and the nighttime vibe is electric!
Shopping Malls of Erbil
While many people do go to the open markets in Erbil, most of the locals are drawn to the modern, sterile, air conditioned environment of the shopping mall. It is a fact of life around the world that our habits are changing and the traditional methods of shopping are giving way to modern culture.
I don’t like it much as the world is slowly becoming homogenised, however there is no denying that it is an interesting place to go and see how the new generation go about their lives. Besides air conditioning is a magnificent luxury when it’s 47 degrees outside and the power is failing elsewhere!
The popular malls of Erbil are –
- Downtown Mall – A short walk south of the main park
- Family Mall – 5 km east of the citadel near to the international bus terminal
- Majidi Mall – 6 km east of the citadel on route 18
Travel costs and information for Iraqi Kurdistan
Frugal travel guide to Erbil
Where to stay on a budget
We are budget travellers and we only give budget travel advice. This means we can’t really promote hotels on booking.com here as none of the real budget hotels in Erbil are listed there, so we won’t be making much from affiliate links on this post! Hahaha!!
The budget hotels are all to be found to the west of the Qayseri bazaar, below the citadel on and around Bata Street. Don’t worry too much about booking in advance, we even found a room at the height of Eid-al-adha which is one of the busiest times of the year.
Download the Maps.Me app to find your way around Erbil
It is a great location in the heart of everything but all the cheap hotels are old and run down and pretty grubby. Kurdistan isn’t great value for money as far as accommodation is concerned.
We stayed in the Hotel Bekhal which suited our needs. The owners were friendly, the wifi worked well and we had power most of the time. We negotiated a double room down to 33,000 IQD during the busy Eid festival when all the other hotels were charging more and the price dropped to 25,000 IQD after Eid.
It was adequate for us but if you do not like the sight of the odd scurrying cockroach then I suggest you go a bit more upmarket.
Exchange rates in August 2019 were US $1 = 1,200 IQD
See the latest currency exchange rates on XE.COM
Travel costs and information for Iraqi Kurdistan
Where to eat on a budget
If you want to eat cheap in Erbil you will be eating shawarma, kebabs or gas as they are known in Kurdish. They come in lovely boat shaped bread. It is normally chicken or beef meat and you add veggies on top from a communal buffet. Price – 1,000 – 1,500 IQD
These places often do falafel also which is really tasty. Price – 750 IQD
There are a selection of eating places on Bata street and also inside and around the bazaar.
For great sit down eating options walk south a little to Iskan Street which is full of restaurants, cafes and street stalls with plenty more options.
Don’t forget to try the incredible ice-cream places you will see dotted all around Erbil with delicious, good value ice-cream on offer. The good ones are full of locals.
If you want to go up-market then take a taxi out to the Dream City restaurants where you can wine and dine western style for western prices.
Getting around
There are some minibuses driving around Erbil but we never managed to work them out. We were fortunate enough to be driven around by our Kurdish friends and we walked a lot too.
Most locals don’t bother with buses and take taxis everywhere. We took taxis out to Garage Baghdad and to the International bus terminal from the centre for 3000 IQD
Getting there and away by bus
The new International Bus Terminal is 5 km east of Erbil centre. There are plenty of bus companies leaving from there to different Turkish destinations throughout the day.
We arrived on a bus from Silopi for 100 TL = US $17
We left on a bus to Sanliurfa for US $35
Bus Travel to Sulaymaniyah
From Erbil we travelled to Sulaymaniyah , Kurdistan’s second city. Shared taxis and minibuses leave regularly, when full from Garage Baghdad which is 5 kms south of Erbil centre, just off the Kirkuk road. Price 10,000 IQD by minibus. 15,000 IQD by shared taxi. The ‘garage’ is marked on Maps.Me as Garage Suli Hawler
We left at 9.30 am and arrived in Sulaymaniyah at 2.30 pm. Returning, the bus only took 4 hours as the driver was much faster! You stop mid-way for a food break. They take the back road directly to Sulaymaniyah rather than drive south through Kirkuk as this is a more secure route!
For more detailed information on travelling in Kurdistan see our other post
Travel costs and information for Iraqi Kurdistan
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Are you planning on going to Iraqi Kurdistan? Do you have any further questions?
We hope you enjoyed this post on Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan. Please leave a comment below if you have any more questions. We’d love to hear from you!
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10 thoughts on “Erbil Iraqi Kurdistan – Travel Guide”
So, so tempting!!!
What language were you using to communicate with the locals?
We’re so pleased we went, and have made lifelong friends with some of the incredible people we met there!
We had downloaded Arabic and Turkish on Google Translate, as they can be used offline. Almost everyone we met spoke either of the two and/or Persian… and many spoke English as well! Within 3 minutes of struggling with Google Translate, someone would always appear who would speak excellent English.
I loving following along on your travels as you always go to such interesting places. I’ve been eyeing Erbil for awhile, not sure my husband is as keen.
This is such an amazingly detailed and helpful guide. So when I finally get there, I’ll be sure to save it for reference. The abandoned Arab Quarter looks like it would be up my alley. Always up for exploring a ghost town! The Qaysari Bazaar also looks great. I always buy so many nuts and seeds and dried fruits when I’m in places like that. So looks like I’d be in heaven there.
Thank you for the kind words! We feel the same way about your blog – have bookmarked some of your articles for cities we’ll soon be visiting!
Iraqi Kurdistan was amazing – I’m so pleased we went. Erbil was a great city to visit – I’d recommend not going in summer or during a major holiday period!
Something to keep in mind is that you’ll be issued with a free 30-day visa for the autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan only – however the stamp is for the Republic of Iraq.
This will cause issues with visiting the States as is in the “Naughty 8” category, along with Iran, Syria and Yemen.
A trip after that to the US would require an interview at a US embassy and $150 for a 10-year visa… something we’ll be going through in a couple of years so will try to visit all the countries on that list before then.
You would love the Qaysari Bazaar – so bustling and totally not touristy!
Hello guys! Thanks for this detailed guide. It will for sure help us a lot as we’re heading today to Erbil from Diyarbakir. We marked all the interested spots on maps.me which has been our absolutely favorite app for the last 4 years. We tried our luck with couchsurfing and we hope it will be rewarding experience, as always. Though we decided to splurge a bit on the first night and booked a decent hotel – not something we do normally, hahahaha… We are very excited!
One question. Did you do any side trips? Like to Rawanduz from Erbil, Halabja from Suli or Lalish from Duhok? We plan to do some of them, just have to figure out if the best way is hitchhiking or trying to bargain a good price for taxi.
Apologies for only just seeing this! We hope you’re enjoying Erbil and that the Turkish attacks on Syria aren’t having too great an impact on Iraqi Kurdistan as yet.
We only spent time in Erbil and Suli as couldn’t handle doing too much in 47C! Our friend was there recently and is way more adventurous – I’ll ask her now for information on where she went and how she got there.
Part 4:
To Rawandiz they should start kinda early bc it’s mountain slopes and it took us quite a while even with a proper car.
I hope this helps.
Let me know if they need more input 🙂
Our friend has kindly written back:
Regarding trips in Kurdistan.
To Lalish it’s easy to hitchhike from Dohuk.
get a taxi until Dohuk City Limits in the east. From their they can easily get a car ride to the check point before Lalish. It’s called lBadrah”. Behind the checkpoint starts the road to Lalish. They just walk there and flag down a car, because most of the cars taking this small road are going to Lalish anyway.
The way back is easier. Just ask any person with a car at Lalish. The majority heads back all the way to Dohuk anyway.
It took us appr. 40minutes to get back to town with the truck who took us.
I don’t recommend taxi for Lalish, because they request too much money and then they wait for you and you cannot take as much time there as you want.
Hitchhiking is definitely easy there and will be for free. Yezidi people are amazing.
Part 2:
Halabja from Suli is easy as well. Shared taxis are running down there and cost 6000 IQD.
I can only recommend staying in Dolphin Hostel and to ask Shah, the owner, which minivan Stopp is close to his hostel. Alternatively he can negotiate a “private” taxi price and then they can decide how they want to get there. In Halabja you only have the museum which is worth visiting.
Part 3:
Rawanduz is a little more of a hassle.
You have to go to Soran first and from there to Rawandiz. Since I did it with friends from Erbil, we had a private car which made it easier. But I know there are vans running to Soran and from there you take shared taxi for 5000 IQD or they hitchhike (which will be easy again bc ppl are traveling a lot between those two villages).