This is my account of the 4 day Mestia to Ushguli trek amongst some of the most awe inspiring scenery and villages of Svaneti. It explains our journey in detail and gives tips and advice on how to organise this excellent trek independently on a budget.
Why trek from Mestia to Ushguli?
Trekking in Georgia is sublime. On the nature side, it has high mountains, glaciers, deep forested valleys, and wild running rivers. On the cultural side it has historic picturesque villages; friendly and hospitable people, and delicious and unique food to sample.
There is a good reason the Mestia to Ushguli trek is by far the most popular in Georgia. It has all of the above in spades. The villages are littered with these incredible Svaneti stone towers that give them a magical, medieval aura. It simply is an awe-inspiring and dramatic hike through some of the best scenery in the Caucasus.
To top it off the Mestia to Ushguli trek is an relatively easy, comfortable trek over an undulating landscape, the longest day being 7 hours long. The trail is reasonably easy to follow and the villages en route offer accommodating guest houses with excellent food. No need to carry a heavy backpack!
For these reasons I chose to trek from Mestia to Ushguli. While Mandy took some time off relaxing in Mestia, I teamed up with Gabriel, a Swiss trekker I met in the hostel there and together we hit the trail.
Mestia to Ushguli trek description
Day 1 – Mestia to Chvabiani – 5 hours
It was not a great start as i’d slipped on the wet bathroom floor the night before and smashed my elbow on the floor. It left a deep wound and a painful bruise so I could hardly move my arm. Not to be perturbed, we began walking after a leisurely start at 10.30 am from Mestia. First we stopped for some supplies including fresh baked bread, still hot out of the tandoor and delicious lobiani (large bread boats filled with bean paste). Very tasty snacks.
We walked towards the edge of Mestia and then raced back to buy an emergency supply of sun block. The sun was already burning our necks and supplies were low. We knew 4 days of exposure could be bad news for us so erred on the side of caution and bought enough to keep us covered. Leaving Mestia, we followed the excellent hiking instructions on Caucasustrekking.com and used maps.me which gave us a good idea of what trail to follow.
Leaving Mestia on the Mestia to Ushguli trek
It was a little difficult finding the route as some signs out of Mestia are missing but there are plenty of the red and white trail markers to lead the way. Later in the trek we came upon red ribbons tied to trees and bushes to guide us also. We crossed the fast flowing river with an impressive view back to the collection of watch towers looming over the town.
After hanging a left we started ascending a steep, rough road which turned into a track leading up the valley wall. The trail climbed higher and a side trail took us up a steeper, muddy bank to a fantastic view point at the top of the ridge. It was worth a long rest stop here to admire the scenery looking back down on Mestia below and the snow capped mountains beyond. Clouds perched on top of the peaks giving it a mystical vibe as we gazed in awe at the spectacle.
Over the pass
It was a short hike on to summit the pass and grab an even more dramatic view of the Mulkhura valley spreading away to the east. This was a clear view of what the rest of our days walking had in store for us and the best part was it was mostly downhill from here on. We could see the small hamlets of Murshkeli, Lakhiri and Chomasli spread out below us. Their watch towers stood, like dominos’ lining up the valley into the distance.
The high trail
There are two trails, one descending directly onto the valley floor and following the road through the low villages. We took the high trail with its more dramatic views over the valley and the Mulkhura river below. We walked and talked, enjoying the pleasant sunny day and slowly descended into these villages.
Stepping back in time
Approaching Lakhiri was the highlight. We rounded a corner and it stood in front of us, stone watchtowers surrounding a medieval stone hamlet with a mountain backdrop. Pigs and piglets frolicked in the muddy lanes and a curly horned goat eyed us disapprovingly over a crumbling wall. It was like we’d stepped back in time 500 years.
The path crosses a gurgling side stream on wobbly wooden planks and then slowly dips down to the river side. The Mulkhura river was running high and fast, carrying melt water and debris down from the mountains. The washed out bridges were a sure sign of the power of this river. We walked with two young German students for a while, all of us drunk on the pleasure of the beautiful, bucolic vistas.
Finding some shade on the river bank we stopped to eat a picnic. We’d let time pass us by and had a late lunch as we had gotten carried away with our fine journey.
To Chvabiani
Only a short walk on, and we crossed the metal bridge that took us to our destination, Chvabiani village. At the top of the hill, past more stone buildings and towers were our beds for the night at Vodo’s guest house. The owner invited us in and made us welcome. It was 3.45 pm, just over 5 hours after leaving Mestia. Time for a good rest and to enjoy this peaceful place.
Before the sun set I wandered the enigmatic village, photographing the many huge stone towers which were glowing in the golden hues of the late evening. Returning to the guesthouse, 4 old village ladies in traditional black dress, sitting on a wooden bench called me over. We had a basic conversation in my schoolboy Russian and they offered me a drink from a huge jug. It was natural water from a local spring which had a very cloudy look to it. They assured me it was incredibly healthy for my body so I swallowed the lot. It had a warm, sulfurous taste and wasn’t unpleasant. It was a kind gesture of Georgian hospitality that I was to find a common occurrence in this mountain region.
We stayed at – Vodo’s guesthouse. Booked in advance on booking.com. Cost – Bed 15 Lari Dinner 20 Lari Breakfast 15 Lari = Total 50 Lari
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Day 2 – Chvabiani to Adishi – 6 hours
The day began with a steep 800 metre climb up a track following a stream up towards the Tetnuldi ski resort. It was hot and sticky so we were pouring with sweat by the time we reached the top. Our feet were pretty wet too as we had spent so much time hopping across running water and muddy puddles.
Across the Tetnuldi ski resort
The patch comes out onto the open road following the ski lift to the highest point of the day. It is exposed here and unpleasant walking in the heat but fortunately does not last long and the views towards Mount Tetnuldi are impressive.
We followed the trail off to the right where we came across a small wooden cafe with a cracking view. It seemed to be a popular with the other trekkers on the trail so we joined them for a coffee and a rest. From here on it was downhill all the way to Adishi.
Downhill to Adishi
From the cafe it was a gentle downhill descent for 5.5 km to Adishi. The path was easy and comfortable and passed through beautiful open grasslands littered with a dazzling array of colourful wildflowers.
We stopped for a picnic lunch at a wonderful spot half way down in a flower filled field close to an ice cold mountain stream. The idea of bathing was irresistible so the boots came off and we enjoyed a paddle in the refreshing water. A multitude of colourful butterflies fluttered around us and it felt like we were in a true natural paradise.
Into Adishi
Arriving in Adishi late afternoon, we searched for a guesthouse and found a very good one in the centre of the village. After kicking off the boots and donning some more comfortable plastic sandals we did a little exploring. It is a pretty, atmospheric place in a spectacular location which was slowly rebuilt after an avalanche had destroyed many buildings.
Slightly further along the trail from the village is a wooden bridge over a another freezing cold mountain stream. Here we took great delight in bathing and washing some clothes. A group of us, trekkers who had united on the trail, then enjoyed a wonderfully restorative yoga session on the bridge. A perfect location with the water gushing below us.
We feasted yet again in the guesthouse at night. The owners really know how to treat you and we were fed copious portions of great Georgian food. Nine of us sitting round the table couldn’t even come close to finishing this amount of food. This is trekking at its most comfortable! A powerful thunderstorm knocked out the electricity and sent us to bed nice and early.
We stayed at – Family guesthouse. Not booked in advance. Cost – Bed 15 Lari Dinner 20 Lari Breakfast 15 Lari = Total 50 Lari
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Day 3 – Adishi to Iprari – 7 hours
Everyone leaves Adishi early so they can attempt the river crossing early in the day when the water level is lower. Our guesthouse offered breakfast at 8am so we managed to get on the trail at 9.30. Our German friends had started at 6.30 but we were not so keen!
The easy path followed the Adishi river upstream for a little over an hour of walking. We then came to the river crossing, downstream from the glacier. Here the gushing, freezing cold glacial melt water is at its narrowest and horsemen wait to ferry trekkers across to the other side.
The Adishi river crossing
At the Adishi river we had two choices. Pay the horsemen 20 Lari to be carried the dozen or so steps across the river or take our boots off, roll up our shorts and wade through ourselves. We chose the latter!
It’s a bit of a scam actually. A bridge could easily span this river but it doesn’t. The horsemen wait at the fastest section which is probably the hardest to cross on foot so tourists just pay the money rather than take the risk. You could easily walk upstream and cross at a wider, shallower section which should be far easier. They have to make a living though I suppose.
The Adishi River Crossing
Into the ice cold water
We watched others cross on foot first to assess the situation. A young couple tried and although he made it easily, she stumbled at the far side and got drenched. I decided to follow his route across similar to the horses. I took my footwear off and wore my rubber sandals which protected my feet from the rocks. The water was running fast and strong but was only knee high at the deepest and I was able to cross without incident.
Next came across three Spanish guys who also crossed comfortably. Together we held out a long branch from the far side which spanned half of the river which helped others with less confidence to get across. They only had to take a few steps before they could grab the end of the branch to help them over.
Tips for crossing the Adishi river
- Watch others cross first and only cross if you are confident
- If the water lever is knee high or below it is safe to cross
- Roll up your shorts as you will be splashed to waist high
- Use a driftwood branch to help others across
- Put your electronics in a dry bag just in case
The only way is up
After the river crossing it is a long 2.3 km uphill hike on a very muddy trail to the Chkhunderi pass, the highest point of the Mestia to Ushguli trek. On the way we reached a wonderful viewpoint back down towards the Adishi glacier below us. This is marked on maps.me as a splendid viewpoint. It certainly is!
The weather was kind to us and the views from the pass were incredible in all directions. It is a great place for a mid-day picnic so we wandered further up the ridge line to a quiet spot away from the many trekkers and sat down to eat and enjoy the scenery.
From here it is a 9.5 km downhill hike, dropping down to the Khaldechala river and following it past Khalde village to Iprari below.
Going off road
Most trekkers stay in Iprari but we could not find any rooms on booking.com in advance so booked a place 1.5 km further on in the quiet hamlet of Khe. We realised this was not really necesary as there seemed to be rooms to be found on arrival in Iprari, even at this peak trekking period in July.
Instead of taking the easy road to Khe we chose the off road option, following a simple track which soon disappeared on us. Soon we were walking muddy tracks, crossing another flowing stream and then finally wading through head high vegetation with nasty nettles that stung our legs. It took one hour to walk the final two km’s km’s so we finally arrived, tired out after 7 long hours on the trail.
We stayed at Raul Darbaz’s guesthouse which was comfortable and very welcoming although the dinner portions were a bit small for someone who had just walked 19 km’s. Raul’s home made wine hit the spot though and he did set up a disco ball on his balcony for our pleasure as we sat talking in the evening!
We stayed at – Raul Lushnu Darbaz guesthouse. Booked in advance on Booking.com. Cost – Bed 20 Lari Dinner 20 Lari Breakfast 15 Lari = Total 55 Lari
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Day 4 – Iprari to Ushguli – 4 hours
The final day of the hike is the easiest. Only 12 km’s which takes a reasonable 4 hours of walking. The weather finally broke on us and we set out in the rain. After following the main road a while we climbed up onto a path above which follows the ridge above with great views across the valley below. Low cloud among the hills gave it a mystical air.
We eventually dropped back down to the road and then crossed the river below to follow the trail into Ushguli. This is an amazingly dramatic entrance into the village.
The stone houses and medieval towers blend into the surrounding hills. The village is a collection of 4 small hamlets which climb the hill following the Enguri river. What an amazing sight Ushguli is!
We stayed at – Lika guesthouse (next to Chvabiani guesthouse) Not booked in advance. Cost – Bed 20 Lari Dinner and Breakfast 20 Lari = Total 40 Lari
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Stay in Ushguli
It is exhilerating to arrive in in this wonderful location at the end of the Mestia to Ushguli trek. The biggest mistake people make is jumping straight onto a marshrutka back to Mestia immediately. This village deserves at least an overnight stay to explore it and its surroundings properly.
We stayed in the Lika guesthouse, next to Chvabiani guesthouse. Here we had a comfortable bed, a great garden view of the mountains and watchtowers and a sumptuous dinner and breakfast served to us by the friendly owners.
Explore Ushguli
The rest of day 4 was spent soaking up the atmosphere of the fascinating and incredibly photogenic village. It was well worth walking up to the watchtower overlooking Ushguli for the all round scenery. Another great spot is the hill where the church stands to the north of the village. From here there is a great view up the Enguri valley to the glacier above.
Hiking to the Shkara glacier viewpoint
A great add-on to the Mestia to Ushguli trek is the hike up the valley to the Shkara glacier viewpoint and back. It is 8 km’s long and fairly flat so is pretty easy. It was overcast and raining the odd shower when we decided to do it in the morning so we moved fast. We managed to hike up in 2 hours and back in 1.5 hours.
Watch the Youtube video
Transport back to Mestia
Unfortunately, there is a taxi mafia that controls the transport prices between Ushguli and Mestia. The taxis and marshrutkas gather at the bridge on the entrance into the village and charge tourists a set fee of 40 Lari for a one way trip back to Mestia which is extortionately high.
Guesthouse owners will quote the same price of 40 Lari per person, whether it be for a car or a marshrutka seat, for fear of reprisals from the mafia for undercutting.
The way around this is to ignore the aggressive demands at the bridge and continue to walk down the road out of town. As soon as you are out of sight of the bridge a vehicle will approach you and the driver will negotiate a reasonable fare. We paid 25 Lari each for a minibus for 3 people. The driver was happy with this price and apologised for the mafia situation at the bridge.
The drive back is spectacular along the deep Enguri river gorge. Sit on the left for the best views.
Mestia to Ushguli trek tips
- Carry a small day bag with as little as possible for comfort. A change of trekking clothes and something dry and warm for the evening. In July the weather was hot during the day and mild in the evening.
- It can rain often in the mountains, so a raincoat is a good call and maybe a backpack cover.
- A dry bag is a great idea to protect your electronics if you do the river crossing on foot.
- Buy a few snacks in advance to take along for the trek. Most guesthouses feed you well and it is possible to take your breakfast leftovers for lunch.
- There are also drinks and snacks available en route in small home style cafes.
- Take enough cash in Lari with you. 60 Lari per day minimum. I took 400 Lari for 5 days which was more than enough.
- Try and give yourself 5 days. It is worth staying in Ushguli for a night as the village and surrounding area is beautiful.
- Do not rely on WIFI. Only on one night in Idishi did we have working WIFI.
- For an excellent, detailed route description, refer to the Caucasustrekking.com blog.
- Take your time and enjoy the Scenery!
Please leave a comment
We hope you enjoyed this account of the Mestia to Ushguli trek. It was a highlight of 3 months of slow travel around the Caucasus for me. Please feel to drop us a comment in the box below and if you have any updates, let us know so we can keep the information fresh for others.
Happy travels!!
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8 thoughts on “Mestia to Ushguli trek”
Look absolutely gorgeous!!!
Not sure whether mid-October is suitable for a trek in the area. What would you suggest for a shorter or day trek to see the towers and villages? I am travelling solo but guess I can team up with someone from hostels for a short trek.
How common is ATMs in Georgia and Armenia? I am wary of taking too much cash on me as I will be on the road for 3 months.
Mid October is definitely out of trekking season. It would be very cold and some places would be hard to to get to. Saying that, you could do short day hikes around Mestia and Ushguli. You can arrange transport in Mestia to Ushguli for a day trip – friends paid 35 GEL each for the return trip, and had 4.5 hours in Ushguli.
ATMs are plentiful, even in small towns in Georgia and Armenia. Tip – Use TBC bank in Georgia as there are no access charges! 😁
Hello,
Thanks a lot for this page! Very helpful! Going there in one week, and your article is a gold mine 🙂
I can’t find your guest house in Adishi on internet ? Where did you find it ? Because people look to complain a lot about other guest houses. Thanks again.
Hi Stephen. We couldn’t find much online for Adishi either so we just turned up and asked around in the village. Glad we found that place because the food was amazing and they were lovely people. Many of the places in these villages aren’t on booking. It was the only place we stopped at that we got ok WiFi too! If you have the maps.me app it is marked on there as family hostel. I could send you a screenshot of the map location if you like. Happy trekking!!
Hi,
I’ll check it out on maps.me. Cause people looked to be very disappointed with the accommodation found on booking.com. Thanks again for your blog and your quick reply. Cheers.
You are most welcome Stephen. It’s marked on maps.me but the tiny path down to it isn’t. When you arrive at the village there is a small wooden cafe/hut on the right and a junction in the trail. Go right, down the slope and family guesthouse is on the right. Enjoy!! 😀
Cool! Thanks. I noticed that the prices doubled since you’ve been! The Vodo it is now 30 lari for the bed instead of 15. 😂
Hi Stephen. I just checked on booking.com. The price is 30 Lari for a double room for either 1 or 2 people. I was trekking with a friend so it cost us 15 each. If you are travelling alone sometimes you have to pay that premium unfortunately. If places are not too busy sometimes you can negotiate it cheaper for a single person on arrival but it all depends on demand at the time i suppose. It is quite easy to find a trekking buddy when you arrive in Mestia as most people are heading out on the trail. I found mine whilst staying at Svanland hostel in Mestia.