A Frugal Travellers’ Guide to Bucharest
Bucharest on a budget – Bucharest is a fantastic city to visit, and what’s more, it is incredibly good value for money. There are many free or very cheap things to see and do. We were fortunate enough to spend almost 4 weeks getting to know the city as Mandy was having some dental treatment done. *We’ll write an in-depth blog post soon about dental tourism in Bucharest* During our stay we explored the city in great depth, and we’d like to share all of the hidden gems we found here.
This list is some of our favourite sides of the city. It includes our favourite budget attractions and also the great buildings and parks of Bucharest.
We will conclude this post with some budget travel advice on where to stay, how to eat cheaply and how to get around.
Top Budget Attractions
National Village Museum
The National Village Museum was my favourite attraction in Bucharest. It is set in the beautiful park surroundings of Herastrau park (otherwise known as Mihai 1st park) in the north of Bucharest. The outdoor museum has over 300 traditional Romanian buildings including houses, churches, barns, mills and much more. They represent the different architectural styles from the many different regions of Romania dating back hundreds of years.
I spent over 6 hours wandering this vast space and at the end, felt as though I’d just travelled right across rural Romania, and through time to another period in Romania’s history.
Cost – Entrance is only 15 Lei = US $ 3.10 An excellent value day out!
Get There – Take a metro to Piata Aviatorilor and it is a 10 minute walk from there.
Check out the Youtube video of the village museum
Bucharest City Walking Tour
The Bucharest free walking tour is an excellent way to become familiar with the city. You will learn all about Romania’s recent tumultuous history. You walk through the old historic part of the city are shown the key points of interest. The well-informed guide explains all you need to know, and is keen to answer any questions you may have.
These guys do a great job and cram a lot into the 3 hours of the walking tour. Highly recommended!
Cost -The tour is free although a generous tip is expected. The guides work hard and it is their sole income.
Get There – In summer, tours leave daily at 10.30 and 15.00 from the clock at Piata Unirii.
Check the website for current times:
Palace of the Parliament
One place you should not miss in Bucharest is the Palace of the Parliament. Famously known as being the heaviest building in the world. Also it is the second biggest administrative building in the world after the Pentagon.
This behemoth of a building was ordered by communist dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu as a statement of his power and stature as he sought political worship from the masses. It didn’t work – he was ousted from power before it was finished and was executed during the 1989 Romanian revolution. A lesson to all totalitarian dictators out there!
Cost – Free to gaze in awe from outside… An internal tour costs 40 Lei = US $ 9.40 but you must reserve in advance.
Get There – Walk the length of Unirii Boulevard from Piata Unirii to get a feel of Ceaușescu’s version of the Champs-Élysées.
The National Opera house
The National Opera House doesn’t look that special from the outside as it was built in 1953 in an austere Stalinist fashion but the inside is a different story. The classical Italian baroque decorations make it a real delight to see with its chandelier, ornate carvings and crushed velvet furnishings.
One thing we noticed during the last year of our travels through Russia, Central Asia and the Caucasus was the importance and value the classical arts had under the Soviet Union. Every city has an opera, ballet, symphony hall and theatre. These were for the enjoyment of all, not just an elitist luxury as in many parts of the world. The performances are of excellent quality and the price to enter very reasonable. We totally recommend seeking one out during your travels here.
We called in to the ticket office on the off chance and a very friendly lady offered to take us into the auditorium and gave us a free guided tour of the interior. We were so impressed we bought a ticket for the opera performance Tosca and returned two nights later in the finest clothes we could muster (which were pretty shabby unfortunately).
The opera was spectacular and a real highlight of our stay in Bucharest.
Cost – 25 Lei = US$ 5.80 for a seat with a great view from the balcony. The cheapest tickets cost only 15 Lei = US$ 3.50. This is a bargain not to be missed.
Get There – Metro to Eroilor metro stop then walk through Parcul Operei
Bucharest’s beautiful parks
Bucharest is blessed with a lot of green open spaces. One thing the Communists did extremely well was provide excellent public spaces for the people to socialise and soak up nature. These are very popular and are free for all of course, so are wonderful places to relax, enjoy and watch city life pass you by from the comfort of a bench, such as the locals do.
These are the best parks of the city and are the perfect places to spend a day in Bucharest on a budget.
Herastrau park – Michael 1st park
As mentioned above, Herastrau Park is a huge, sprawling park in the north of the city on the banks of the pretty Herastrau lake. It borders the leafy, upmarket suburb of Primaverii where the elite of Romania live. As well as the lake, it is home to the Elizabeta Palace, The National Village Museum, a Japanese garden and numerous statues, fountains and works of art.
It was stunning visiting here in autumn with the falling leaves, but is a place that would be beautiful year round.
Cost – Free
Get There – Take the metro to Piata Aviatorillor
Tineretului Park
Tineretului is another diamond of a park, set on a hill with dramatic views over the city. At the southern end is a large amusement park called Orăşelul Copiilor, (children’s minitown). This has all the attractions of a fun fair, including bumper cars, rollercoasters and a toy train. It is a popular place for local families to entertain the kids.
If you want a more tranquil, sedate time then the northern end of the park is perfect. There is a giant lake where boats are rented out in the summer months and plenty of quiet picnic spots around. This park is buzzing with activity on a Sunday afternoon.
Cost – Free
Get There – Take the metro to Tineretului at the north end of the park or to Constantin Brancoveanu for the south end.
Cismigiu Gardens
Cișmigiu gardens is the oldest park in central Bucharest and was created in 1847 around an artificial lake. It is compact but is an island of tranquility in the city centre and a popular spot for city workers to escape the busy streets. Look out for the black swans around the lake.
Cost – Free
Get There – The main entrance is on Boulevard Regina Elisabeta opposite the city hall.
Titan Park
The Titan park and the adjoining Alexandru Iona Cuza park covers a huge area in the east of the city. This is a residential area and is well off the Bucharest tourist trail. We were lucky enough to be brought here by our couch surfing host on a Sunday afternoon when the park really comes to life with visitors. Temporary food stalls had been set up where we could taste some great traditional Romanian home cooking including grilled meats and delicious deserts.
There are 2 big lakes with 5 islands that you can visit. Also there is a replica wooden Maramures church which has become one of the most popular in Bucharest.
Cost – Free
Get There – Take the metro to Titan metro stop
Unirii Square
Unirii square is ground zero in Bucharest and it is considered the centre of the city and is a major transport hub. There are some pretty gardens and sculptures but the main attraction is the enormous line of fountains at the south end.
The fountains were part of Ceaușescu’s controversial city regeneration project that saw many private homes demolished in the area. The grandiose intentions can be seen in this impressive chain of 44 fountains which stretch over 1.4 km. On summer evenings from May to October a free light and sound show called the symphony of water is put on. The 45 minute spectacular starts at 8.30 pm on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings.
Cost – Free
Get There – Many buses and trams depart from Piata Unirii. Metro stop Piata Unirii.
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Bucharest’s Beautiful buildings
It has been said by many other travellers that Bucharest is not a pretty city. Often this is because people do not venture far out of the old town to explore more of the city. Sure, it has many areas of drab, soviet housing and so many of the older buildings are daubed with graffitti but this is what gives the city its gritty edge. Look up from the graffitti at ground level in many areas and you will see some classic Belle Epoch architecture.
You can wander the city admiring the buildings for free and also many of them are attractions in themselves in the form of museums and arts centres. The list is really endless but here are some of our favourites.
The Romanian Athenaeum
One of Bucharest’s classic landmark buildings. The neoclassic Athenaeum is the main concert hall of Bucharest and home of the Philharmonic orchestra. It’s impressive from the outside and we’ve heard even more so inside. There wasn’t anything playing on the day we called in unfortunately. If you time it right you can catch a show there for as little as 15 Lei = US$ 3.50
Check out their website although it is only in Romanian
Get There – Calea Victoriei, opposite the Royal Palace.
Revolution Square
This was the epicentre of the 1989 revolution and was the scene of the downfall of the government during the final, violent days of the revolution. It was from the balcony of the Communist party HQ that Nicolae Ceaușescu delivered his final speech to the nation before attempting to flee from the roof by helicopter before being captured and executed.
The memorial of rebirth stands in the centre of the square to commemorate the struggles and victims of the revolution. The 25 metre high pillar which seems to be spiking a strange rugby ball shape has been quite controversial as many believe it does not properly represent the suffering of the people. Anyone who is interested in the communist history of Romania ought to pay this place a visit.
Get There – Calea Victoreiei, south of the Athenaeum
The Fundatia Universitara
In between Revolution square and the Athenaeum is the impressive Fundatia Universitara building which is worth stopping by for a look. Out front is the enormous equestrian statue of King Carol 1st, Romania’s enigmatic king.
Get There – Calea Victoriei
The George Enescu National Museum
This has to be our favourite buildings in Bucharest and is a fine example of ornate art nouveau architecture. Built in 1901, it is one of the great palaces of Bucharest. It’s worth checking it out for its exteriors stately presence. We didn’t go in the museum but if you are interested in the composer George Enescu, then you might want to. The entrance fee is 10 Lei = US$ 2.30. It is closed on Monday. George Enescu museum website.
Get There – Calea Victoriei 141
The CEC Palace
Worth a look is the mighty CEC Palace on the edge of the old town on Calea Victoriei. This elegant French renaissance style building certainly has a WOW factor. It is topped by the most impressive metal and glass dome and is one of the most well known landmarks of Bucharest. They sure did know how to build in 1900.
Get There – Calea Victoriei 13
How to travel the world as a Frugal Traveller
Old Town Bucharest – Stavropoleos Church
You can spend hours wandering around the old town of Bucharest with its quaint cobbled streets and historic buildings. This area is about the only place in Bucharest which managed to escape the destruction caused by the second world war and then communism. Consequently it is the tourist mecca of Bucharest and is a hot spot for restaurants, nightlife and souvenir shops.
The stand out building in the old town for me was the Stavropoleos church with its ornate wood and stone carvings. Built in 1754 with a very Greek influence, it has character and charm and is a real contrast against the other surrounding buildings. Check out the impressive interior and the peaceful courtyard.
Get There – Down the alley opposite the CEC Palace
The Arcul de Triumf
If Paris has an Arc de Triomphe, why can’t Bucharest? This is a pretty good copy and is worth a visit. The original was made of wood and built hastily in 1878 for the troops to march beneath it when Romania got its Independence. This one was built in 1935 in a neoclassical design.
You can go up to the top for views of the surrounding area although we didn’t as there was an art exhibition up there when we passed by. It is easy to combine a visit here to visiting the Village Museum and Herastrau park as they are very close.
It is also worth walking back down the long attractive Boulevard Soseaua Pavel Dimitrievici Kiseleff towards Piata Victoriei. The Boulevard is lined with beautiful turn of the century palaces, interesting museums and Kiseleff park.
Get There – We walked for 10 minutes from Piata Aviatorilor Metro although there are plenty of buses going even closer.
The Museum of the Romanian Peasant
Another very interesting building at the south of Soseaea near to Piata Victoriei. This used to be the museum of the Communist party during the Communist era and suffered some damage during the revolution. It is now the museum of the Romanian peasant and displays costumes and artifacts showcasing Romanian peasant life.
It costs 12 Lei – US$ 2.80 to go in and is open 10am – 6pm Tuesday – Sunday. Closed Mondays
Get There – A short walk north of Piata Victoriei Metro next to the Natural History Museum
The Ceauşescu former residence
While so many people in Romania lived in poverty, Nicolae Ceauşescu, his wife Elena and their 3 children lived the good life in this ostentatious mansion in the leafy, exclusive suburb of Primaverii. The house and its contents were kept in pristine condition rather than being destroyed after the revolution. It is all now on display and available for the public to see what a luxurious lifestyle the former dictator had.
Entrance to the mansion is with a guided tour that needs to be booked at least 24 hours in advance. The tour lasts 45 minutes and costs 50 Lei = US$11.60. Open Tuesday – Sunday 10am – 6pm. Book online here
Get There – It is a 10 minute walk north east up Boulevard Primaverii from Piata Aviatorilor Metro
Soviet Brutalist Architecture
A look at Bucharest could not be complete without a look into its Soviet brutalist architecture as far as we are concerned. We love to seek out not only the beauty but the gritty, decaying sides of cities too. Although we really do find a certain beauty in Soviet brutalist architecture. They are concrete shrines to the soviet brutal idea of practicality over aesthetics. Bucharest has its fair share.
Our favourite examples are – The Lujerului tower blocks in Militari district. Take a metro to Lujurului. The Intercontinental Hotel near to Universitate Metro. Cladirea Tehnoimport on Strada Doamnei. We’re sure there are more. Please let us know in the comments below if you know of any.
Get There – Buy a day pass for the Metro and go exploring Bucharest!!
If you are into Brutalist Architecture – Check out our discoveries in Tbilisi, Georgia
Bucharest on a Budget – The Guide
Where to Stay
Couchsurfing
In order to meet freindly locals and get a real insight to what everyday life is like in Bucharest, Couchsurfing is a great option. We stayed with an excellent host, Paul who was a wealth of knowledge and very interesting. He showed us how to cook some classic Romanian dishes such as Mamaliga (Polenta) and we spent hours talking and learning about each others cultures. We ended up staying for 3 nights as we had so much fun.
Airbnb
We often stay in hostels using Booking.com to keep costs down but we soon found out after some research that it was a similar price for a double room in a shared apartment than it was for 2 dorm beds in a hostel. After a few weeks of hostels and couch surfing it was a blessing to have our own room and our own space.
As we stayed in Bucharest for longer than usual – We stayed for nearly 3 weeks the first time and a week the second time- We could get a good price on a room. We paid 60 Lei = US$ 13.80 per night for a double room in a nice central location near to Universitate metro. Check out Airbnb for deals to see Bucharest on a budget.
Where to Eat & Drink in Bucharest on a budget
We would love to give you a list of amazing restaurants but being frugal travellers we tend to avoid touristy restaurants and head to the cheap local places or to the supermarket so we can self cater in our hostel or Airbnb kitchen. We struggled to find cheap local places in Bucharest (We’d have loved to have found a stolovaya here) so spent a lot of time eating out of supermarkets like Mega Image and Auchan.
If you are lazy like us, you can find ready made food in mini cafeterias inside some of the big supermarkets where you can eat a big feed for around 15 Lei = US$ 3.50
Buffet bargain – The Capitol Hotel
Occasionally we like to splurge on a special treat and we found an amazing bargain at the four star Capitol Hotel on Calea Victoriei 29 in the centre of town. We would normally walk straight past a venue of this stature but were drawn in here by the amazing lunch buffet special. It is every Monday to Friday 12 – 3pm. All you can eat for 28.50 Lei = US$6.60.
This is quality food at an incredible bargain. You are eating in luxurious surroundings as the pianist entertains you and if you eat strategically, you won’t need to eat again for the rest of the day. This is definitely a step up from sitting on a bench in the park eating supermarket salads! Check out their menu here.
Caru’ Cu Bere – Lunch special bargain
This is one of the most popular spots in the old town for tourists to visit so consequently, we avoided it at first. Then we heard of its reputation and realised how popular it is with locals too for a very good reason. So we decided to give it a go and boy, are we glad we did. Not only is the ambiance amazing but the service is good and the food is very good quality.
Caru’ cu Bere restaurant, Old town
To get a great bargain here we recommend you go for the large lunchtime special for 27.90 Lei . It is only on Monday – Friday, 12 pm – 4 pm. You get a very ample starter, main, salad and desert. We recommend starting with the mamaliga if you are hungry! Check out their website here,
Getting Around Bucharest on a budget
Bucharest is a sprawling city but there are plenty of transport options. These include metro, bus, trolleybus, tram and it seems now scooters! Unfortunately the company that run the metro is different to the one that runs the buses, trams and trolleybuses so you have to use different travel cards for those. We stuck to metro and walking which worked for us.
Metro
The metro network is pretty good and reaches all corners of the city. The trains are pretty old but are reasonably reliable. Each journey costs 2.50 Lei for a single trip but if you are in the city for a while it’s worth buying a 10 trip card for 20 Lei or a 1 week pass for 25 Lei. Buy your cards or tickets from the ticket offices at the stations and scan them through the turnstiles.
Comment below
We hope this post Bucharest on a Budget was of use to you. We thoroughly enjoyed the city and found it to be very interesting and very affordable. In fact our daily spend in Bucharest was on average $US 15 per day each. Please leave a comment below if you can add any more information on how to see Bucharest on a budget. We’d love to hear from you!
Happy travels!
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