Do you want to try something none of the other tourists try in Kyrgyzstan? Then take a step back in time and visit the Jeti-Oguz sanatorium. We visited the Jeti-Oguz sanatorium for treatments & lived to tell the tale! Information on prices & procedures, and photos of a cool yet creepy building – a must for Soviet-era enthusiasts!
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Visiting the Soviet-era Jeti-Oguz sanatorium… and living to tell the tale!
Lee had read about the sanatorium at Jeti-Ögüz in the 2014 Lonely Planet Central Asia book, and thought it would be an amazing way to experience a journey back into Soviet times. He searched for more recent information online but found it very difficult to find any blog posts with up-to-date information. He even checked for information in Russian, with the help of the lovely owner of KbH Karakol Based Guesthouse.
We asked numerous locals in Karakol if they had any details about the Sanatorium as everyone seems to have visited at least once. Unfortunately no-one could provide actual advice or prices. When we asked at the CBT office about the sanatorium, they told us only Kyrgyzs go there, no Westerners. That only made us all the more determined to visit!
The LP states that it looks like a comically typical Soviet affair, and our first impressions were exactly that. Well, that and a marked resemblance to The Shining! I wasn’t too sure if I wanted to trust my health to the women in white or blue robes, with no-one speaking English, but it all worked out well in the end.
Step 1 – finding someone who speaks English
I know we’re in another country so should make an effort to communicate in their language… but we’re still fumbling around with basic Russian so unfortunately Kyrgyz was not on the radar!
Google Translate does its best, but struggled with mud electrocution therapy… and we still weren’t even sure what a radon bath was! Fortunately for us, when we went in on the Saturday to look around and see what was on offer, we met the extremely helpful Chinara, a physio from Bishkek who was at the resort with her mother, who was undergoing treatment for arthritis.
Chinara first dealt with the not-terribly helpful administrator, who said they were fully booked and that there weren’t any rooms available – a massive blow for Lee who had been looking forward to spending the night in the Jeti-Oguz sanatorium. Needless to say I was extremely relieved that we wouldn’t be wandering the hallways after dark. It costs 740 KGS per person per night, in case anyone is interested in staying – be prepared for it to be extremely busy and full on a Friday or Saturday.
Step 2 – finding a local guesthouse if the Jeti-Oguz sanatorium is full
We decided to try one of the guesthouses in town, and stumbled across this place. It was 250 KGS each per night for a double room, with the toilet and shower were out the back in the garden, It was the cheapest accommodation we’d had in Kyrgyzstan, and we ended up having the whole house to ourselves for 3 of the 4 nights we were there! Such a blessed relief after my week in a dorm in Karakol. Even better… there was a great view of the sanatorium across the fast-moving river.
There are a number of guesthouses – a few are mentioned in the Lonely Planet but it’s easy enough to wander into anywhere with this red sign advertising Rooms for Rent. Once we’d seen this, we realised we could have been paying a lot less for accommodation for our previous 6 weeks in Kyrgyzstan!
Step 3 – get your timing right as there’s no treatment on a Sunday
So, we’re all ready on Sunday to head over to hopefully find Chinara and arrange our first treatment, but it turns out that the staff all have Sunday off! We decided instead to do the 4km hike up to the Valley of Flowers, Kok Jaiyk.
We bought provisions from the well-stocked and reasonably priced local store… our go-to Kyrgyz lunch of bread, chechil, tomatoes and cucumbers. I don’t know what it is about the tomatoes here but they are so full of flavour, and at only 50 som per kg they weren’t much dearer than those at the small bazaar in Karakol.
We hadn’t realised that everyone seems to have Sundays off in Kyrgyzstan, and they all seemed to be driving up to the Valley of Flowers! I really hope you have better luck with choosing your days as we always seem to get it wrong – I’m thinking of the crazy crush when we went to see the pandas in Chengdu, also on a Sunday! Visiting the Giant Panda Research Centre, Chengdu
Step 4 – heading back to the Jeti-Oguz sanatorium ready for treatment!
After our usual porridge and coffee breakfast, we headed back to the sanatorium Monday morning at 10am. We knew that mornings would be busy as everyone would be at lunch from 1pm-2pm.
First stop, the radon baths and trying to communicate with the lady at the desk… once again we were fortunate to bump into Chinara, who told us we should in theory have a doctor’s prescription for the baths but they would allow us to use them once we’d confirmed we weren’t suffering from heart disease or any oncological issues. Apparently radon baths stimulate cell growth – definitely not wanted for cancer patients.
Step 5 – Finding the hole-in-the-wall payment office
After conferring with the Guardian of the Radon Baths, Chinara proceeded to drag us back to the left-side of the building and up one flight of stairs to the payment window / kassa (moving too fast to take photos of this!)
Chinara asked how many treatments we wanted. We said we were able to stay until Wednesday so were told we should definitely have two. We had to give our surnames and pay 100 som each per treatment, and were given a receipt for 400 som… then were escorted back to the radon baths area and told to wait.
Step 6 – Enjoying the full radon bath experience (or how to overcome shyness!)
Our details were entered into a book and after 10 minutes of slight trepidation we were shown into our separate adjoining cubicles. Through the ancient art of sign language we were told to strip naked. This is what you’d expect when taking a bath, but it was slightly disconcerting to have the Guardian in her white robe, and the attendant in her blue robe, constantly walk up and down the open end of the room. It was all the more disconcerting to realise that there weren’t any curtains on the clear-glass, ground-floor windows!
I was so pleased we’d found the instructions in English on Saturday’s initial reconnaissance mission, as we weren’t given any instructions by the staff. I was handed a wooden foot rest that was to go at the tap-end of the bath so I wouldn’t slip down and have water over my ears/face. This took a few seconds to master but was fairly comfortable once I had the hang of it.
It was slightly more intimidating for Lee to be comfortable getting his kit off, but he put modesty to one side and got on with the radon bath! 10 minutes seems a lot longer when you’re naked in what feels like a public space in a very hot bath. It would have been very helpful to have had a clock on the wall or to have our entry time confirmed. As it was, I think we were in for 12 minutes, and I certainly felt very relaxed at the end of it.
Step 7 – a visit to the doctor’s office
Lee was determined to try the mud electrocution so went along with Chinara to the doctor’s office for a prescription. I followed instructions and rested outside the radon baths for the prescribed 20 minutes, then got bored so went to find them.
Lee had his prescription, and had had his blood pressure taken and reflexes tested. I decided that I too wanted to try this exotic-sounding treatment so went back into the doctor’s office with them and had my details added to Lee’s prescription… didn’t have any of the simple tests though!
Be careful what you tell the doctor! I mentioned that I had issues with my neck, and as an afterthought said that sometimes my back hurt. He wrote that my back had issues, which was the only thing the nurses concentrated on for the remaining treatments! He was kind enough though to let me take photos with him and of the price list.
We paid at the kassa for two mud treatments each and advised to come back after 2pm for first treatments. Felt a bit peckish so wandered back home for lunch and a rest, returning to the Jeti-Oguz sanatorium at 2:30pm
Step 8 – mud electrocution doesn’t smell very nice
I’m not sure what I was expecting but it certainly wasn’t this! We were the first in after lunch and the mud packs were smelly and extremely hot. Despite the nurse blowing on them they just didn’t cool down. The nurse used mime to tell us to take our tops off and lie on the 2 carefully positioned mud packs. She’d carefully applied the electronic pads to the areas stated on our prescriptions.
We were then wrapped in blankets to keep the heat in, and left for 10 minutes. I felt an occasional slight tingle from the pads but not like the TENS machines used in Australia. I had secretly been hoping for mild electric shocks!
To be honest, I didn’t feel any different after this or the subsequent mud treatment the following day. The only noticeable effect was that Lee’s back was red for hours afterwards!
Step 9 – treat yourself to a massage
We’d heard that the masseuse was excellent – Chinara said her mother was seeing every day for lower back issues. It’s always wonderful to have those aching legs and shoulders taken care of by a trained professional. We both had a full body massage, and it was well worth the price.
Be careful – apparently there are 2 massage therapists. A travel friend told us of her experience with the other masseuse. She just gave a friction rub at 400 som for 20 minutes!
Our massage therapist was so lovely. She didn’t speak any English but was smiling the whole time… and had amazingly strong hands! I would definitely recommend a session with her, especially after hiking one of the many amazing trails in Kyrgyzstan.
Step 10 – Day 2 of treatment
The next day we were up bright and early for our 2nd day of treatment. We started with the radon bath – something I was surprised to enjoy as I’m definitely a shower person. It’s helped me understand why people like lying in the bath for hours with bath salts and essential oils. I have to point out though that the radon baths don’t smell as fragrant!
Then it was onto the mud packs again for our appointments at 12noon. The packs weren’t as hot today so no burns on Lee’s back!
Step 11 – witnessing a slow slide into dereliction
One of the buildings left to slowly fall apart at the Jeti-Oguz sanatorium
After our treatments, we wandered around the grounds. We saw the sad reality of government institutions that charge extremely low prices but don’t receive money for renovations or maintenance. Many buildings were obviously left abandoned with their broken windows. Even the main building had empty rooms and entire floors that were in darkness… not that I’d have dared venture up those stairs! Who knows what could have been up there!
I think it will be such a shame if this wonderful institution is left to rot. With an injection of goverment or private funds it could become another of Kyrgyzstan’s many tourist attractions.
Step 12 – planning our next visit
It might be run-down in places, but the Jeti-Oguz sanatoriumn is still a important health provider for many Kyrgyzs. We thoroughly enjoyed our time there and next time will stay for a week. Next time we might even try the paraffin wax treatment.
Price recap for the Jeti-Oguz Sanatorium
Exchange rates can be found on xe.com
- Doctor’s prescription: 150 som per person
- Radon bath: 100 som for 10 minutes
- Mud electrocution: 90 som for 20 minutes
- Full body massage: 800 som for 45 minutes
- Neck and back massage: 400 som for 20 minutes
- Accommodation at the resort: 740 som per person per night
- Accommodation at nearby guesthouse: 250 som per person per night
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