The Ala-Kol Lake Trek in the Karakol area of Kyrgyzstan is one of the most popular treks in Kyrgyzstan for a good reason. It is easily accessible, the mountain and valley scenery is beautiful, there is a challenging and rewarding pass with views to die for and to cap it off there are magnificent natural hot springs at the end to soak in. In a 3 to 4 day trek it really does have it all. I did it in 4 days and totally recommend it. All you need to know is explained below.
The Ala-Kol Lake Trek
I’d heard all about how amazing the Ala-Kol Lake trek is from all the other travellers who pass through Karakol looking for Kyrgyzstan’s amazing scenery and some adventure in this region. So I decided to see it for myself. Basically it is a 3 to 4 day trek which follows the Karakol river South into a beautiful valley, then climbs up to a high altitude alpine lake and over a pass at 3860 metres and then drops down the Arashan valley back to Karakol. It can be done without a guide and it seemed within my capabilities so I teamed up with some other hikers from my hostel, left Mandy to relax in Karakol and hit the trail.
Take the right gear
I had planned to travel light and try to stay in the few spare tents and yurt camps that can be found along the trail. Everyone in Karakol advised me against this as July is peak season and they feared the camps would be full. There is no way to book ahead and guarantee a space so I reluctantly went to one of the many trekking agencies in Karakol and hired a tent, ground mat and sleeping bag. I didn’t really want to carry too much but I’m glad I did in the end. It turned out to be the right decision in the end. By the time I left I was heavily laden with warm clothes, camping gear and plenty of food. I needed it all!
Camping gear for the Ala-Kol lake trek that I rented from Eco-Tours agency in Karakol
- Tent – 400 Som a day
- Sleeping bag – 80 Som a day
- Ground mat – 50 Som a day
You can follow the trail very well using the free Maps.Me app
The Ala-Kol lake trek – Day 1
We started badly getting on the wrong bus as directed by a local. After a slight detour we got on the right one. The 101 bus heading East along Toktogul, the main street in Karakol. It cost 20 Som and delivers you to the main national park gate south of town. There you pay your entrance fee and you are in.
National Park entrance fee
- 250 Som per person
- 150 Som per tent
It was 10 am by the time we started hiking. The sky turned dark and it started to rain. A friendly Kyrgyz guy stopped in his 4X4 and offered us a ride along the rough track so we jumped in and he took us about 4 km which saved us a good hour of walking. We crossed the wooden bridge to the West side of the river and hiked up the pretty, forested valley. By 1 pm we had arrived at camp 1 where the trail splits and re-crosses the river and then climbs up the steep hillside to camp 2.
As we were making good time we decided to keep moving and head to camp 2. This is a really steep hike and took us 3 more hours as I was carrying so much weight. I’d forgotten to refill my water bottle in the river and was quite dehydrated by the time we got to the camp and a water supply. It was a great hike but I was ready to collapse by the time we arrived at 4 pm.
Camp 2
The camp had a small selection of Yurts, a few old tents and space for us to put ours. You could get a hot meal from the nomad family who were running the camp there but I ate what I was carrying just to get rid of some weight. I set myself a challenge to eat a Kilo of food and I think I did! 1 less to carry! A camp fire was set up and all the hikers staying around gathered to keep warm and chat around the fire. It was a very cold night and a lot of the trekkers suffered because they had inadequate clothing.
The Ala-Kol lake trek – Day 2
We broke camp and got on the trail by about 9 am. It was a hard slog up this section and took 3 hours of struggling up through big boulders and scree to reach Ala-Kol lake. The scenery behind me was very impressive though. I used the excuse of stopping to look around and admire the view so I could take a rest. I noticed some ominous clouds gathering in the West and following us up the valley and I realised that bad mountain weather was going to hit quite soon. For that reason I decided to set camp early at the lake to get some shelter before it turned nasty. This is a high altitude lake at over 3500 metres which means it was going to be a cold night alone up there.
Mountain weather changes fast
The rest of the people trekking with me chose to continue over the 3860 metre pass as they were in a hurry and wanted to complete the trek in 3 days. They headed off up the steep, rocky slope into the mist as I hurriedly erected my tent. The wind was starting to get stronger. I set up behind a rock shelter and secured the tent. Within minutes It was raining hard and the wind was shaking the tent violently. I was warm, dry and safe once inside but I feared for my friends who would be up on the exposed pass in this bad weather. There was a big group around with guides who had radios so I was sure they would be safe.
I had to hunker down in my tent for the entire rest of the day and night as the unpleasant weather continued. In that time it rained, hailed, sleeted and then snowed during the night. The wind abated eventually but for a time I was worried If my shelter would hold up. I wore all the clothes I had. I had thermal long john’s, Wool socks, a merino base layer, 2 t-shirts, a heavy fleece, down jacket, windproof jacket, mountaineering gloves and an alpaca chullo. This is mid summer and it was still a freezing night up there. My sleeping bag and silk liner kept me going.
The Ala-Kol lake trek – Day 3
I woke at 5 am to a still tent. Outside ice had formed all over It but the sky was perfectly clear. The clouds had gone and as the sun rose I was treated to a spectacular view of the turquoise alpine lake below me and the surrounding jagged mountain peaks which were all covered in fresh snow. It was a sight for sore eyes! I was stiff and cold from the rough night but I knew It was the perfect time to keep moving over the mountain pass while the weather was still and fair.
I ate some breakfast and then packed up my frozen tent. Breaking the ice off with my frozen fingers was painful and there was no way I could get It back in its bag like that so I just stuffed it into my backpack loose and started moving to get warm. I left at 7 am. The sun had risen but I was still in the shade of the mountains so was bitter cold and I was walking on icy rocks and in fresh snow.
It took over 2 hours of steadily climbing to finally cross the Ala-Kol pass. On top of this I was suffering from an old back injury after my cold night in the tent. I feared that I wouldn’t be able to make it up there with my heavy load. Walking alone in these conditions is exhilarating and frightening at the same time. I was so relieved to make it to the top and I was rewarded with the most breathtaking views in all directions from up there. It was magnificent!!
A steep descent
The descent down into the Kel-deke valley was just as exhilarating. The fist 500 metres is a steep drop down a soft, steep slope of sandy rock. Gravity tries to take over and it really takes some concentration not to lose control and your footing. Once over that you are home and free. I walked through some snow and to a yurt camp in the jailoo (high mountain pasture) below and replenished my water bottle in the freezing cold water of a glacial melt stream. Lying on my back in the warming, sun and resting was sheer bliss. I was thankful to have survived a stormy mountain night at altitude and a sketchy, icy pass on my own.
Losing the way
Dropping down below the tree line into the verdant valley was a pleasure for the eyes after being in a stark, rocky environment. I followed the river, through trees and past grazing horses. It seemed like paradise here. The path disappeared on me but I thought I was fine just following the river downstream. My map showed a river crossing but I couldn’t see it myself. The water was running high after the previous night’s snow and I couldn’t see where to cross. I was reluctant to try it alone and there was nobody else around so I spent a few hours pacing up and down the river looking for a way.
Crossing the swollen waters
I was getting really worried that I’d made a mistake. Rather than attempting a river crossing alone I decided to hike back up the valley to look for other people to cross with. I’d lost hours doing this but I think it was the right decision in the end for safety’s sake. Eventually I met 2 other trekkers and a guide who showed me to the original crossing I was at. I watched the guide and followed his lead. Removing my boots and putting on sandals I was able to cross the knee-high water in this way.
An off-road forest short cut
Another guide split his toe open trying to cross the water barefoot. Luckily I was carrying a basic medical kit so I helped him clean and dress his wound. He was thankful and invited me to follow him and his 2 friends on a shortcut through the forest to the camp at Altyn-Arashan. I agreed, happy to have the local knowledge after my delay trying to find the river crossing. The 3 guides cut through the thick forest going directly downhill at lightening speed. They were over 20 years younger than me so I had to march fast to keep up with them. I certainly didn’t want to lose sight of them here as I’d be lost in the forest alone.
From the crossing it was about a 2 hour fast hike down to the camp sanctuary at Altyn-Arashan. At one stage the lads re-crossed the fast running stream over a fallen tree that lay high above the raging water. ‘Kyrgyz bridge’ they announced and ran the 12 paces it took to cross. It was a frightening crossing that I would never have attempted alone but I had no choice. I was so relieved to finally emerge at the beautiful collection of buildings and Yurt camps that is Altyn-Arashan at 4 pm. I had been walking for 9 hours.
Altyn-Arashan
Altyn-Arashan really is a blessing at the end of this long trek. As well as being in a gorgeous valley setting it has the bonus of having hot springs on the banks over the river to soak your trek weary aching muscles in. Believe me, you’ll need them.
There are 2 options. You can use the private cabins that the local yurt camps own in their grounds. These are private baths set inside wooden huts that you pay 200 Som to use. Or you can head down to the riverside at the far end of the village to use the free, natural hot springs. These are hidden down a steep path so you’ll need directions from one of the locals. They are concrete baths set into the hillside looking over the forest and river. The water isn’t quite as warm as the private ones but the setting is a natural wonder. I opted for the latter.
It was pure bliss relaxing alone in the hot water whilst watching the river rush by. It had started to rain hard but that didn’t matter as was in the second spring which is set in a natural cave. I spent an hour soaking my aching muscles. What was more, I had set my tent up for free at the Ala-Kul guesthouse and ordered dinner with them for 300 Som. After 3 days trekking it was heaven to eat an enormous hot meal and drink my entire body weight in tea. A perfect way to end an epic day of trekking!
The Ala-Kol lake trek – Day 4
It was a beautiful clear day on my final day of the trek. I packed up and walked the easy downhill trail along the rough jeep track heading out of the valley. It is possible to arrange transport along here if you are too exhausted after the long hike. The track is that rough that the jeeps bounce along painfully slowly. The views are wonderful so I definitely recommend walking it to enjoy the scenery more. The valley walls are steep with pine trees clinging to them and the river flows wildly along the valley floor. It took me 4 hours 15 minutes to hike the 14 km out including a pleasant 45 minute lunch break at the riverside.
The trail comes out at a road junction where you can cross the road and wait for a passing marshrutka (minivan). The marshrutka number 350 will take you back to Karakol for 30 Som. Congratulations… You’ve completed the Ala-Kol lake trek and you’ve earned yourself a slap up dinner in Karakol!
Note: When i got back to Karakol I found my trekking friends had made it safely over the pass in the awful weather. It had been a very unpleasant experience for them and they missed the incredible views due to poor visibility. They missed out the exact thing they trekked up there to see. I really believe it is imperative to allow extra time in your trekking itinerary in case of bad weather. It takes a lot of effort to get up there and you really do not want to miss out on the amazing scenery due to lake of time available.
Important things to remember for the Ala-Kol lake trek
- The mountain weather is very changeable so take plenty of cold weather and wet weather gear – even in summer
- Try to take 4 days instead of 3 to allow for bad weather. Also it is far more pleasant to move slowly and enjoy the stunning scenery up there
- It is possible to stay in Yurt camps although carrying a tent will give you more flexibility
- You can get food at the yurt camps but it’s good to take plenty of snacks
Useful details regarding the Ala-Kol lake trek
- We stayed at KBH Guesthouse in Karakol. A great place to meet other trekkers. 400 Som in a dorm
- Take the 101 Marshrutka heading east on Toktogul to the park gates to begin. 20 Som
- Pay 250 Som entry and 150 Som per tent at the gates
- It takes about 4 hours up to camp 1. Yurts available
- Another 2-3 hours up the steep climb to camp 2. Yurts available.
- It takes 3 hours from there to reach Ala-Kol lake. Campsites.
- About 2 hours up and over the pass from there
- The pass is beautiful. Plan to arrive in good weather and give yourself time to enjoy the scenery
- There are 2 more yurt camps below the pass where you can find a bed and maybe a meal
- It took me 9 hours to hike from Ala-Kol lake to Altyn-Arashan with a delay to find the river crossing
- Free camping at Ala-Kul guesthouse and a great meal for 300 Som
- Go to the free natural hot springs a short walk from there. Spectacular!
- About 3.5 hours walking time to get out to the main road
- Marshrutka 350 will take you to Karakol for 30 Som
Check out the short Youtube Video of the Ala-Kol lake trek…
Check out some of our other adventures in Kyrgyzstan
Liked the Ala-Kol lake trek? Take a look at the Lenin Peak trek in southern Kyrgyzstan
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