The Trans-Siberian railway is undoubtedly THE epic train journey of the World. There is no longer continuous train ride anywhere. From Moscow to Vladivostok it covers almost 6000 miles (9288km) and 7 time zones, stretching across the vast expanse of Siberia to the Far East of Russia.
It would take over 7 days to travel the full length of it in one go but we chose to go slowly and split the journey into sections so we could visit the towns and cities along the way and get a real feel of what life is like here in the middle of a Siberian winter. A Winter Journey across Russia on the Trans-Siberian was going to be a true epic. Our journey began in Saint Petersburg…
Trans-Siberian Dreaming
It had always been a dream to see Siberia in the dead of winter to get a feel of what life is like there at its most extreme. We’d also always wanted to ride on the Trans-Siberian railway, as it’s the best way to see Russian life at close quarters. So when the plan for our Grand Tour of the Eurasian Continent came together, we discovered our dream could become a reality.
Making plans for the Trans-Siberian
It all seemed to work out. Leaving Europe in mid-winter, we’d ride the rails across Russia in this off-peak but perfect time to see Siberia at its most raw. Then we could travel slowly through China in the pleasant months of spring and cross the mountains of Central Asia on the Silk Road during summer. That sounded perfect to us!
We started by fulfilling another dream by taking a ship up the Norwegian Coast into the Arctic to witness the Northern Lights. That was an experience of a lifetime and a taste of it can be found here. Then we flew across to Helsinki to visit a good friend before entering Russia on 10 February when our Russian Visas began. Next stop, the Trans-Siberian!!
Entering Russia
In true Frugal Traveller fashion we found a cheap special deal for a bus from Helsinki to St Petersburg in advance, for only €10 online – not bad for an 8 hour journey! It was with Lux Express and was a comfortable ride across the snow-covered forest landscape of Eastern Finland.
The border crossing into Russia was a little daunting with the expected surly looking uniformed border guards outnumbering the passengers. For some reason we were called to the front of the queue, but once the immigration officer had scrutinised our documents and found them in order, their faces softened and they let us pass.
There is something incredibly satisfying hearing the thunk of a passport stamp when you’ve invested a lot of time and effort to get that tricky visa… we were in!
Watch our Trans Siberian journey on YouTube
St Petersburg
Our first stop was the incredibly attractive and sophisticated European style city of St Petersburg. It was thrilling to be in a new country. Russia is European but felt so different to any other European country we had ever seen. It took some time to get used to negotiating the treacherous streets covered in snow and ice as we slipped and slid along.
We spent 5 days exploring the city with its amazing architecture, impressive Orthodox churches and historic buildings. Visiting the Hermitage was a highlight. Set in the immense Winter Palace this place was the home of the Russian Romanov Tsars for centuries until the infamous Russian Revolution began here in 1917.
We met up with a travelling friend as well and had fun trying out the different Russian food in the Soviet era stolovayas (canteens) that would become our go-to eating places throughout Russia for cheap, filling, and tasty meals.
The Red Arrow
There are dozens of daily trains trains linking St Petersburg to Moscow but the most famous, and the one we wanted to take, is the Red Arrow. This was a luxurious train back in the day that travels overnight between the two cities. Both Stalin and Lenin travelled on this train and it is the most historic and atmospheric.
Sure enough, it didn’t disappoint us with its faded frilly curtains, and tired but ornate fittings in the 4-berth sleeper carriage. We shared with Yuri, a University lecturer from Yekaterinburg who gave us the rundown on Russian train travel. Included was a light breakfast served at 6am before rolling into Moscow train station at 7 o’clock in the morning.
This train works out cheaper than the fast, modern train to Moscow and you get bed and breakfast! There’s something really satisfying about settling down to bed in crisp sheets and being rocked to sleep by the train, and then waking in the morning to the excitement of arriving in Moscow. What a brilliant start to a new day!!
Sleeping in confined spaces
In Moscow we stayed in a centrally-located hostel called Tchay Chas. A brilliant location, only 15 minutes walking to the Kremlin but the hostel was a bit rough round the edges. A very Russian place full of itinerant workers who slept in tiny dark bunk spaces that looked more like cupboards in the corridors.
Our room was minuscule and the walls paper-thin but at least we had a window! The queue for the only two toilets and one shower was frustrating at times. The Russians accepted it very casually so after a while, so did we.
Moscow in winter
Moscow in winter feels like being in a fairy tale. A really surreal experience. The Moskva river is frozen solid, and heavily wrapped-up fishermen sit on stools fishing through holes drilled in the ice. The snow lay thick everywhere and the trees in the parks were bare and white like huge icicles rising from the ground. The ornate and colourful Orthodox churches covered in snow looked like something you’d see on a Christmas biscuit tin lid.
The crowning glory is, of course, Red Square with Saint Basil’s church and the Kremlin framing the perfect winter scene. This with a brightly lit Christmas market (it was February!) in the centre. We never tired of walking through Red Square. It is such a photogenic place and the entire area is steeped in such intense history that it is almost palpable.
We spent another 5 days wandering Moscow, totally blown away by the history and cultural mix of this place. Walking through Red Square you see European and Asian faces and everything in between, with gold-toothed Central Asians, Mongolians, Georgians and Tartars all mingling in the crowd.
We spent a day inside the walls of the Kremlin among 800 years worth of historic buildings. We trudged through the snow surrounded by the red walls and turrets, whilst being watched closely by keen eyed guards. You feel uneasy but it’s thrilling to be in the epicentre of this powerful and commanding nation.
The Moscow metro – A museum for the people
We spent one entire day riding the Moscow metro system, which is a true sight to behold. Built under Stalin in the 1930s, it was designed to showcase the power of the Soviet system and provide the public with a lavish space. It was decorated with artifacts liberated from the bourgeoisie during the revolution.
The underground stations were built with baroque architecture and furnished with chandeliers, frescoes, statues, paintings and mosaics. It was like the inside of an aristocrat’s mansion but for the pleasure of the people.
It is a show of communism with style and it feels like a piece of history frozen in time. An amazing throwback to the Soviet era, it is a living museum, for the price of a 36 Rouble ticket (less than £2). It’s actually better than a normal museum as you get a comfortable sit-down on the metro as you ride in between display rooms, rather than being on your feet all day!
I loved the communist propaganda with Lenin constantly on display, 1917 commemorated, the show of people power and the emphasis of the nation working together to achieve a common goal. Healthy looking athletes stand alongside happy farmers and industrial workers. This is communist Russia at its finest. Alive and well, and living under the streets of Moscow.
Feeling the cold
Moscow was an incredible place to see and I fully recommend going at this time of year. The difficulty of walking the snowy and icy streets is a challenge and the freezing cold weather makes it tough, but the experience of seeing the real Russia more than makes up for it.
We combated the cold by dressing for the Arctic. I wore 7 layers including a big down jacket, thermal underclothes, and mountaineering gloves. It hit -13 one day, with the bitter air blowing right through us, so we’d duck into nicely heated shopping malls, churches and public buildings for the occasional necessary warm up.
The scary thing though was the fact that we were now heading east, into the heart of frozen Siberia. We were struggling already and it was only going to get colder. How would we cope? There was only one way to find out! It was time to board the Trans-Siberian train proper and head into that frozen wilderness. The mere mention of it sent a shiver down my spine!
Next chapter… A winter journey on the Trans-Siberian Part 2 Moscow to Irkutsk
Find out how easy it is to go on a budget Trans Siberian adventure
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Happy Travels!
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